Sunday, September 21, 2008

Arête du etellerannet

Per Magne had again a good suggestion. The snow was still deep in chamonix, so again we went towards Annecy to find some alternativ climbing ground. This arete is a classic in the area on perfect lime stone. The approach goes over crazy razor sharp ground with several big caves and holes. The route is 12(8) pitches (5c+), mostly well bolted, but it was good to have a small rack. Another beatutiful day - although not especially high, we had great views to the Mont Blanc range. Tomorrow I leave for Zermatt and the mountain emergency medicine course.







Friday, September 19, 2008

Via ferrata in Thônes

Per Magne is a man of many good ideas. He lives in Chamonix and wants to explore all the steep pleasures of France. As the weather had left a white thick blanket of snow on the upper summits we used the day to vist Thônes, about an hour out of Chamonix. A great day to get some air!



Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Lazy dayz

The last days has been spent mostly on Elevation 1904, a great little restaurant opposite Chambre. With wifi, good coffee and pleasant music and great staff it works excellent as a field office in Chamonix. The last days has been spent on developing the forthcoming Scandinavian Diploma in Mountain Medicine. A lot of work is still to be done, but it´s gradually taking shape. Right now I´m working on the winter module program - potential diplomats: you have a lot to look forward to! Sitting inside for two days give a bit restless feet. Today I walked from the midstation of Aguille de midi to Montenvers; Mostly a photoday while at the same time getting some air. Recognise the mountains? Per Magne is keen on doing some stuff, we´ll see what the forecast brings - there´s a lot of snow up high already.
















Monday, September 15, 2008

Live pictures from Arolla!

Here´s som live footage from the DMM course. Warning: Strong contents - do not try this at home!!!!;)


Sunday, September 14, 2008

Chamonix meeting point

I arrived in Chamonix yesterday afternoon. Now staying in Ragnar´s appartment, I look forward to some days of catching up with some "office work". It rains in the valley, which means snow up above. Not great weather for touring, but as always it will get better. Last night I had dinner with Per Magne and Reidun. While we had some beers later in the evening, suddenly Oyvind, Hasse and Lars Erik enters our pub. The world is certainly small! What was starting as a quiet evening therefore ended on a crowded dance floor after several pitchers.

I have bought a back-up phone; for SMS and other short messages I´m now available on +33 632 936 465.

DiMM course Arolla

During 5 days in the Swiss alps, the last course in the UK Diploma in Mountain Medicine curriculum was held in Arolla, a parallell valley to Zermatt. In the charismatic hotel Mont Collon we held base, under Andy´s supervision. Graham led the guides as usual, the staff consisting of Steve, Nigel and u.t. It was a pleasure to see Brian again and along with Andy, the two created medical scenarios in the field. Heatstroke, cardiac problems and a sprained ancel were some of the problems that had to be solved. Two of the nights were spent in mountain huts, spending the day before and after to practice different alpine skills. All were drilled in crevasse rescue, prussiking and other rope techniques. As usual, with Brian on the team, the week ended in the piano bar. Another good week logged;)



Sunday, September 7, 2008

Lost phone!

I have lost my mobile phone.
I´m only available on mail for the time beeing.

Crossing the Swiss Alps

My first stop in Switzerland was in Samedan, to visit Manuel Genswein. We had nice day bicycling around the engadin area and had lunch overlooking St Moritz and the Bernina range. He promised me wildlife, and we really got it when we walked into a heard of steinbock. Although it is now hunting season, these majestic animal let us get pretty close as long as we kept a low profile. It is truly amazing how they move in rough terrain - as expert climbers the jump from rock to rock without failing a single step! I also got a nice roundtrip on the Rega base, and over some glasses of wine the ideas are forming for the next JOSMAR. On saturday I took the Glacier express to Sion, by that crossing most of Switzerland from Zürich in the north to the south-western border. It will now be good to have a full week in the mountains!
















Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Gol´s new playground

There is a new crag in Gol. Well, it´s been around for a couple of years, but it´s new to me. Last weekend I had a good session with Bjorn, Per Ola and Jorgen, some of the developers of the crag and responsible for several new great routes. In between cleaning and climbing routes we got to drink a lot of coffee and celebrate Leo´s birthday with Markus and Nina; He´s now 3 years old!